Parts
For worldwide parts orders, please complete the form below or email Connor: connor@hydrovane.com
Parts orders ship from our manufacturing facility in the UK.
Prices shown are ex-VAT and shippping.
Parts Schematic
For Your Installation
Optional but necessary
Purchase ours, or source your own materials.
Backing Plate Kits: Backing Plates are mandatory on the inside of the transom. Any substantial marine material can be used as a backing plate: 316 stainless, aluminum plate, any of the hard plastics. Ours are aluminium plate and come with two M10/M12 Mounting Bolts. Highly recommended if you are installing in a remote location without easy access to a chandlery.
Mounting Pads: Mounting Pads are pieces of teak or suitable synthetic that are very hard but can be shaped to pick up the contour and/or angular differences between the transom and the flat inside faces of the bracket flanges.
True flat areas on the transom will not required a Mounting Pad, but it never hurts.
See our Installation Guide for tips on shaping the pads, and Specifications page for templates to make your own. Ours do save some time and effort.
Backing Plate Kit
A: Backing Plate #95
Marine Grade Aluminium
240 x 100 x 8 mm
B: 2 x Mounting Bolt Sets
M10 x 150mm or M12 x 150mm
Fully Threaded
Mounting Pads
It is common that a Mounting Pad must be made and shaped to pick a contour or angular difference between a flat bracket flange and the transom.
We offer: Mounting Pads made of Teak (T) or Plastic (P). H Spacer pads – if needed – do not have the finished edges.
A: H Mounting Pad
Part #100T or #100P
Spacers – Part #100TS or #100PS
#100T – 3/4” thick, #100P – 20mm thick
#100TS – 1.1” thick, #100PS – 30mm thick
B: E Mounting Pad
Part #106T or #106P
#106T – 1.1” thick, #106P – 25mm thick
#106GW – 5˚ Wedge Pads, #106PW
C: A Mounting Pad
Part #111T or #111P
#111P priced as a pair
#111T – 3/4” thick, #111P – 20mm thick
OFFSHORE SPARES
Essential Kit
Recommended for every boat. The Essential Kit includes replacements for the common wear points.
Vane Cover (#76) – The lightweight ripstock nylon vane covers can last a surprisingly long time, but the sun takes her toll. Be sure to take the vane off when not in use, and store out of the sun.
2 Locking Pins – There are 3 interchangeable Locking Pins (#60, 61, 62) on the Hydrovane. The Shaft Locking Pin can suffer from metal fatigue while motoring, so should be changed periodically. The Locking Pins are Super Duplex stainless steel – 3x stronger than 316.
Drive Sleeve (#19) – This plastic sleeve will develop grooves and need replacement after 15,000nm or so
Loctite 243 – this medium strength threadlocker is used on all grub/set screws on the Hydrovane. It is essential if one needs to re-set any of the set screws. Most commonly: the Axle Screws.
Knob (#32 or 33) – Metric (post 2016) or imperial (pre 2016) can be provided.
Bolts and Screws: Spare M10 x 65 Bolt Sets, Set Screws, and Axel. Please note that both metric and imperial set screws are supplied with the kit.
Plus Kit
The Offshore Spares – Plus Kit is recommended in addition to the Essential Kit for remote voyages and non-stop racers.
Ratio Knob, Bolt, Spring Set (#21, 56) – The plastic Knob can sometimes wear over time.
Ball Sockets (#20) – These plastic sockets wear down and contribute to less controlled movement of the Con Rod.
Axle (#47) – There are 8 Axles on the Hydrovane. This is a spare in case of loss.
Ratio Rod (#35) with M8 set screw – In case of loss.
M10 and M12 Mounting Bolts
Remote course setting line – Standard 8m length is provided of the 4mm low stretch line.
Frame Case Screws (#2) – plastic screws that hold the Frame Case on.
Other Commonly Ordered Parts
Shaft Bearings
Shaft Bearing Sizing
When ordering Shaft Bearings, please advise:
- Shaft outer diameter (OD): 1 ¼” / 31.75 mm, or the older 1 1/8″ / 28.575 mm. Measure at the bottom, where the rudder fits on.
- Age of the Hydrovane Shaft Assembly.
- Photo may also help us identify the vintage
Post 2002 All Shafts are 1 1/4″ / 46.8mm. Tubes are machined inside to 46 mm ID for a better bearing fit.
Pre 2002
1 1/8″ / 28.575 mm shaft – tube is 46.8 mm ID
1 ¼” / 31.75 mm – tube is 44.4 mm ID
Shaft Bearing Kit
Hydrovane Shaft Assembly post 2002
Shaft Bottom Collar #26, 46
Stainless Steel, with set screw
Shaft Bottom Bearing #25
PTFE
Shaft Mid-Bearing #24M
Shaft Top Bearing #24
Shaft Race Collar & Pin #27, 28
Shaft Ball Race #31
19 Ball Bearings
Upgrading Parts
‘To-do’s’ if you wish to refurbish an older unit
All Shaft Bearings, including the new Mid-Bearing (#24M). We discovered that, at speed, the shaft could flex a bit to cause the bottom bearing to crimp and stick – not long enough to be noticeable, unless you are watching for it. The Mid Bearing, included in shaft assemblies after 2008, is made of PTFE and solves the sticking. It is a definite improvement especially for faster boats with longer shafts.
Bottom Collar (#26) – now made of ‘316’ stainless steel for the 1 ¼” / 31.75mm shaft. Solves all prior issues of cracking plastics.
Vane Knob (#32) and Axis Knob (#33) – new versions, since 2005, are far tougher and improved with a nyloc nut to prevent the knobs from spinning off (a problem with the old knobs). Now available in kits that include the additional parts that were probably lost when the original knob fell off – assuming a lost knob is your problem.
Improved Bobbin & Con Rod Assembly – In the spring of 2010 we improved the design by eliminating the Con Rod Top Casting (#68). The Con Rod now fits directly into the Bobbin. The fit is tighter making the system more responsive and it is stronger – way stronger – 33 times stronger.
Other Drive Unit Upgrades – If keeping an older VXA2 Model, a matching upgrade would also include new lead weights (now properly balanced for light air performance), tiller (less prone to break or come loose), drive sleeve (tighter), and axis disc (altered to provide a bit more action – not easy to replace).
Rudder – We keep improving the rudder:
- In 2006 the length was increased by 5.5 inches/14 cm
- In June 2009 it got thicker by adding 5 lbs./2.3 kgs. – now weighs 23 lbs./10.5 kgs (half that in water)
- The latest version (introduced in the summer of 2009) was developed by our in-house engineer, Ted Hargreaves. Ted inspired the upgrade based on his aeronautical experience with foils. After the first test Ted reported it was much more powerful but so light to the touch – easy to control – couldn’t believe that it could be that good while also being so very stable. It is a vast improvement. We strongly recommend the upgrade for any owners with older versions of the rudder who would like the extra power.
Shaft (#29) – now standard (since January 2009 or so) is a ‘super duplex’ steel shaft:
- Nearly three times as strong as the old ‘316’ version!
- This shaft is a ‘must’ for today’s rudder
- To determine which shaft you have look at the bottom: the old ‘316’ version has a rounded radius at the bottom. Most of the new ‘super duplex’ ones have a straight 15 degree taper. The true test is to put a magnet on the shaft – ‘316’ is NOT magnetic but the SD is magnetic.
‘A’ Bracket ‘Shaft Clamp Section – all parts on the outboard end including the 3 castings:
- In the fall of 2013 we introduced an improved ‘A’ Bracket. The old version was quite flexible but the arms were rigid at an angle of 40 degrees.
- The arms can now be set at any angle from 40 degrees to 80 degrees – making our most flexible bracket even more flexible.
Please consider all of the above if looking to purchase a used unit. We only produce parts for the current model – since 1986.
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